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Dog Nutrition

+6
smokyriver
HighCountry
Arcticsun
Hidden River
karona
Amy
10 posters

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1Dog Nutrition Empty Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:32 am

Amy

Amy
Full Time Member
Full Time Member

Not chicken related at all but I know we have some 'dog people' and I would love some input on dog food.

This afternoon I will be the proud owner of a 92lb 5 month St Bernard. He is eating Nutro large breed puppy food right now, which I believe is a good food but rather pricy. My other 3 all eat Old'Roys Maximum (I think thats the one) When should I make the gradual switch ? My dogs also get a fair bit of scrap meat (RAW).

Any other tips or breed info I should be aware of ?

And yes I will post pictures when he gets here Smile

2Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:43 am

karona

karona
Full Time Member
Full Time Member

Start mixing the two brands 1/3 old to 2/3 new
increase the new every few days until the old
food is gone.
We just got two bloodhouds 7 mths old and in a
week they were switched to our food.

3Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:29 am

Hidden River

Hidden River
Golden Member
Golden Member

I would say being he is a large breed and already so big at 5 months old you will want to feed him a junior or adolecent food. Or even mix puppy and adult together. To put him on adult food at such a young age may cause him problems down the line.
Our great pyranees we always feed Puppy food to 5 months, adolecent food for 7 months, then adult after 1 year of age. I personally believe the puppy years are the most important foundation to a dogs life and pay the added expense of really good food, once they are over a year old a person can slack off a bit.
From responses before the Ol Roy Maximum is a favorite amongst some of our dog people here.

http://www.hiddenriverranch.weebly.com

4Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:49 am

Arcticsun

Arcticsun
Golden Member
Golden Member

Hhi

We dont use any puppy foods on any of our dogs. It is designed for overly fast growth and the potassium/calcium/mag ratios are often off especially with there being inappropriately high levels of calciuym.

With a giant breed I would look into something a little lower in fat and protein than the Maximum. Have a look aty the Old Roy lamb and rice. Im not a fan of feeding lamb, but it is a decent food and not as high in protein or calories as the Maximum.
S

5Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:53 am

Amy

Amy
Full Time Member
Full Time Member

Arctic, do you think I should make the switch now with his remaining bag of dog food ?

I also have a 5 yr old Border Collie/Greyhound(super neurotic) and a 10 yr Lab/Spanial that is generally overweight and inhales food like a shop vac. I am thinking not that only the Bc/Greyhound needs the Maximum ?

6Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:31 am

Arcticsun

Arcticsun
Golden Member
Golden Member

I would not waste the food you have. Go half and half for a while then switch.

If the old guy is a porker then ya, drop the Prot/fat levels. Thinner is better, especially when the joints begin go.

ANd if they are too thin, keep the fat in the feed high.

7Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:28 pm

Amy

Amy
Full Time Member
Full Time Member

Thanks Arctic! Thats what I will do! There is enough of his food to mix half and half for about 2 weeks.

Dog Nutrition Dsc04010

8Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:42 pm

HighCountry


Active Member
Active Member

Ha I knew you picked up the one on FSJ Very Happy Bernards are AWESOME!!!!! Our Emma is the sweetest, best dog ever! I will always have a Bernard now. She was suppose to guard the critters and be an outside dog but she is so cute she wormed her way inside and is our house dog lol. We ended up getting a Newfie male pup for outside "Elvis"

http://www.highcountryshetlands@xplornet.com

9Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:01 pm

Amy

Amy
Full Time Member
Full Time Member

Haha, yes its him. We lost our Pyrenees (Vet thought he may had a stroke?) a few weeks ago and I didn't want to deal with the wandering again, I have heard a lot of good things about the St Bernards. And he is pretty well trained already and great with kids!

10Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:47 pm

smokyriver

smokyriver
Golden Member
Golden Member

He is beautiful!! WE have a bernard pyrenese cross puppy who looks to be about the same size. He is an absolute doll with his big bernard eyes and bark!! Good luck with your new guy!

http://Www.poultrypalacecanada.com

11Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:16 pm

debbiej


Full Time Member
Full Time Member

I feed Orijen, but if you want a good lower priced food Kirkland food is rated highly.

12Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:55 am

BriarwoodPoultry

BriarwoodPoultry
Addicted Member
Addicted Member

I would use kirkland food before the ol'roy lamb & rice personally. I think it's a better quality food yet still a decent price. Smile You might want to give him a day or two to settle in before you start mixing food. Any kind of stress (new home) can = upset tummy or diarrhea. He is super duper cute!!!

http://briarwoodpoultry.weebly.com

13Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Sun Dec 04, 2011 6:25 pm

smokyriver

smokyriver
Golden Member
Golden Member

I forgot to mention that we feed Acana food to our dogs, you can purchase it at UFAs and it is fairly good also.

http://Www.poultrypalacecanada.com

14Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Sun Dec 04, 2011 6:30 pm

Arcticsun

Arcticsun
Golden Member
Golden Member

Accana is a GREAT food, one of the best.

15Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:34 pm

Schipperkesue

Schipperkesue
Golden Member
Golden Member

Arcticsun wrote:Hhi

We dont use any puppy foods on any of our dogs. It is designed for overly fast growth and the potassium/calcium/mag ratios are often off especially with there being inappropriately high levels of calciuym.

With a giant breed I would look into something a little lower in fat and protein than the Maximum. Have a look aty the Old Roy lamb and rice. Im not a fan of feeding lamb, but it is a decent food and not as high in protein or calories as the Maximum.
S

This point is particularly important to consider when feeding large breed puppies. You definitely want SLOW growth with the big ones and remember to keep them a little skinny. You SHOULD be able to easily feel ribs, but not back bone or hip bones. Te end result will be a healthier adult with fewer hip/joint/bone issues.

Sue

16Dog Nutrition Empty Re: Dog Nutrition Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:05 pm

Cathyjk

Cathyjk
Addicted Member
Addicted Member

Could someone post what this Ol' Roy Maxximum Nutrition looks like.. like a cover of the bag?

I stopped at Walmart today to check out Ol' Roy and found one that said Ol' Roy Maximum Nutrition but the order of ingredients was: fat, chicken by-product, corn gluten, corn meal, rice flour and then a bunch of others... THAT doesn't look particularily good.

C

P.S. great website http://www.dogs4dogs.com/ and


http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=betterproducts

From the site

Top Rules for Choosing Commercial Foods
for Dogs and Cats

By Jan Rasmusen and Jean Hofve, DVM


1. Read labels. Call the manufacturer's toll-free number posted on the label with any questions. Check out ingredients with this cool wizard developed by a pet food company http://www.naturapet.com/tools/ingredient.asp to get definitions for ingredients. Find the exact legal definitions at the FDA website.

2. Buy food that’s closest to fresh. Frozen, freeze-dried and dehydrated foods are better than canned foods which are in turn better for your pet than dry kibble.

3. The first ingredient should be one or more “named” animal proteins (like lamb, beef, chicken or venison). “Meat” can mean anything. Important: manufacturers trick us by putting, say, lamb first followed by corn gluten, corn meal and brewer’s rice; the three carbs added together outweigh the lamb.

4. Accept no by-products (like meat by-products). Legally, they’re the non rendered, clean parts, other than meat, derived from slaughtered mammals, including but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low-temperature fatty tissue and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. Icky sounding, but not completely horrible if a meat source is named (chicken by-products are far better than poultry by-products) and are better if canned (where they are canned fresh, not rendered or processed) than in dry food. However, this is a cheap product with inconsistent ingredients.
-meal. Because of “mad cow disease” scares, meat meals are banned in countries like Japan and France. These are the worst ingredients imaginable.

6. Accept no "animal" products, such as "animal digest." Digest is a flavor enhancer which can contain varying parts from animals of unknown origin. Yum.

7. Reject all corn products and gluten meals. Corn and gluten are common allergens. Wheat gluten was contaminated in the 2006 major pet food recall in a attempt to boost protein content with melamine. FROM Cathy _ sorry but Ol Roy no matter which one i looked at was loaded with corn and gluten meals.

8. Reject chemical preservatives (like BHA, BHT, propyl gallate, ethoxyquin, propylene glycol).

9. Avoid "light" or "senior" or "special needs" or "breed-specific" foods. These variations on regular pet food are mostly marketing gimmicks, sold at a premium, with little or no real benefit to your pet. "Natural" or "human grade" foods are terms generally seen on better-quality foods but have no legal definition.

10. Feed several brands and flavors with different protein sources your dog or cat tolerates well, and rotate them frequently.

***************************************************************
Here's an excellent article on pet food: What's Really in Pet Food? Read another good article on Selecting a Good Commercial Pet Food by Dr. Hofve and her great article Dog and Cat Food Labels: Marketing Tricks That Cost You Money on my blog Truth4Dogs. On my Blog4Dogs blog, read Dog Food: 10 Scary Truths

Dr. Martin Goldstein on feeding pets.

*************************************************************************************

Kibble and Grocery Store Foods

The term "super premium kibble" may be an oxymoron, with few exceptions. Kibble, because of the way it is made, is overcooked. Vitamins and enzymes are destroyed and cheap vitamins are added back. This can lead to dehydration and bloat. It is too often polluted with toxins and can become contaminated. My preferences, established by extensive research are, in order of best to worst, fresh, frozen, freeze dried or dehydrated, canned, kibble.

4-D meats (from dead, dying, diseased and disabled) are a mainstay of the pet industry. And, of course, antibiotics, steroids and hormones pollute even our own food. Clearly the worst go into kibble where they can be well-cooked and the taste can be disguised with extruded fat. Yum!

Calling the manufacturer in question can give you some sort of answer to the quality issue. I go organic for my dogs and myself.

There is no upper limit for pesticide contamination levels for corn used in pet food.

Pet food marked "human quality" has quite different standards than food marked as "for pets only" or not marked at all. The USDA, which inspects food for human use, has strict standards about animal health. Unfortunately, the standards don't apply to antibiotic, steroid and hormone use. Only a label marked "organic" addresses those issues. Still, USDA inspected does mean something.

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