How to trim a beak?

I have no idea how to trim a chicken's beak. As it seems like a critical part of the chicken to be messing with (causing a toe nail to bleed was bad enough last weekend ) I am wondering what device to use and how to go about it properly.

Or maybe someone can show me at Red Deer?

i use nail files on the toes so i guess it could work on the beak

why do you want to trim a beak?

I second ipf's motion, why do you need to trim a beak?

Not a motion; not even an opinion. Just a simple question.

I am not sure if it varies from breed to breed, but I have encountered several birds (all roos, I don't know if that is significant) but the top part of the beak gets very long, visually it is apparent that it is not right.
It is so easy to trim (I use large dog nail clippers) if they have a concrete stone in their enclosure they will trim up their beak on their own, or if you need to trim it they will smooth it out on the own. Free range seldom need trimming but like horses if they don't get out on the open range to naturally cut their nails they need some help.

It is important not to cut the lower part of the beak just trim the upper.
I no expert, so I will invite others to chime in.

I agree nuthatch, some birds are just more prone to over growth of beak than others. And to prevent issues down the road it is nice to keep them trimmed back.
NEVER cut the bottom beak, it will bleed FOREVER, just ask me... LOL
I had a bird when I first got into chickens that had a slight cross beak, I thought I could fix the problem if I simply trimmed a bit off the top and bottom, well lets just say I eventually culled that bird for other issues but that bottom beak bled right through all my clotting remedies, took a day or two to get it completely stopped bleeding, and I only took the tip off.

You trim a beak as part of the show prep for that bird. I brought in the ones I have entered in the upcoming show. They all had their beaks and toenails trimmed, and I went over them to ensure they had no external parasites. I trimmed with dog nail clippers. 3 days before the show I will bathe them and dry them. In the meantime, they are inside to keep an eye on them and ensure they are healthy and in good shape.

Sue

Thanks for the advice. I did mean the top beak only but good to know one should never touch the bottom.

It would be for the show in Red Deer that i ask. The top beak on these birds are not too terribly long and I am not 100% comfortable doing this so I think I will just leave them. They have access to cement and bricks so maybe they are self trimming.

Note that beak trimming can severely reduce the bird's ability control mites and lice. In this study, hens with trimmed beaks were found to have 10 times the numbers of mites and lice, compared to intact-beaked birds. (Crowding further increased lice levels, but not mite levels.)

Although the study was done on caged layers, I see no reason why the results would be very different in free range birds.

http://ps.fass.org/content/89/12/2565.short

Ah, so that's why I've seen birds drag their beaks back and forth through the dirt, sort of like sharpening a knife. Must be natural beak maintenance. Good to know.

Ipf
I totally respect you opinions in almost all matters, so I say the following as an invitation to sincere debate.

I would take exception to that study on several levels.
Trimming beaks as suggested by show poultry breeders, I believe, is quite different than beak trimming by commercial poultry producers.
So called debeaking in the commercial industry is sever and the birds do not have the opportunity to re-sharpen their own beaks. This is a cruel practice, in my opinion , studies like this are very well intentioned, wanting to bring attention to this cruel practice. I wholeheartedly agree and am against debeaking.
However what is suggested here is a much more passive approach and the birds should be allowed the opportunity to resharpen their beaks.
Imagine trying to get rid of lice and mites with short blunt beak. Not nice at all, but short smooth sharp beaks would work very well, better in fact I imagine than long overgrown sharp beaks.
As an animal advocate it troubles me to have to question a well intended study, but as with all studies it must stand up to scrutiny.
I believe small cages and debeaked birds live a horrible existence but we must really understand what is the the problem.
For us:
A well trimmed beak is good.A sharp beak is very good for grooming and visually nice.
For commercial producers with birds in tight quarters:
a blunt beak is good as birds don't pick at each other (but for the birds, its uncomfortable, and hard to groom properly and control parasites.)
Ultimately we need to ask what is best for the bird.
We all know commercial breeders rarely ask this question.
My opinions on the subject.

Quite right, Nuthatch, as long as the process IS different, and not too dire.

Too often people think they know best, when creatures left to do what they want to do figure it out just fine. A bird given the opportunity and resources to sharpen its own beak will probably do the best job, in my opinion.

Debeaking, where half of the top beak is removed in factory birds to prevent them from injuring each other in the crowded conditions they share and is done when they are chicks with a hot blade. They can still eat but they cannot peck at each other and I would think their ability to remove lice would be nonexistant. I can't imagine mutilating a bird like this.

When you trim the beak for show you remove a millimeter or two from the top beak that overlaps the bottom. It neatens the appearance and prevents the judge from being scratched by the beak. It is a courtesy to the judge along with trimmed toenails. I can imagine that after handling hundreds of birds in a day a judge appreciates anything that prevents injury to his hands.

Sue

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Thanks Tara the pictures were quite helpful.

The beaks I want to trim for the show are all dark (of course!) As I have been staring at their beaks alot I have noticed it is very hard to tell where I can trim to.

As of last weekend flour is also an item in my collection of chicken tools and medications. I became over cautious after trimming a toenail too short so I think I need to go out and trim again. Maybe if I am feeling brave I will try their beaks.

If you need a hand on triming the beak I can give you a hand at the show.
Nail file is a good bet if you are unsure. Then you only take a little off at a time.

Oh I might take you up on that KRL! I will have to go nail file shopping as I don't own one. Sheesh...chooks are way more high maintenace than I am

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Great pictures Tara, that is the same way I do mine. I use the big toe nail clippers for their toes too.
The spurs, when I have to do them, I use a grinder. A dremel will work to, but sometimes they do not spin fast enough to stop the bleeding. A grinder cauterises the spur as it cuts it. You have to be patient and usually 2 people is better than one, but I have done it by myself. You can get them short and blunt without bleeding. It is the main way they are done in Australia. A 1/2 to 3/4 inch, flat ended spur is a lot easier on the ladies than a pointy one.

Poplar Girl, so much good advice people have given you here. A nice post for others not willing to ask, to learn from too. I use corn starch instead of flour. I have found it works better for me, others may disagree.