Why oh why do my little duckies die???

My first batch of Aussie spots didnt fair as well as I had hoped. I had great fertility, 3 of 4 of their very first eggs fertile, incubated for 4 weeks, all looked well when I put them in the hatcher, but then nothing...I cracked them open today and they never even absorbed their yolk, guessing they died 4-5 days before hatching? I cannot recall if I saw movement before transfering or if the egg just looked ok? Either way why would they go so long and then not hatch?
The same thing happened last year with my pilgrims, the ones that were fertile would grow, but die before hatching? Is is too much humidity? Not enough? The air cells seem to grow as they should. I am stumped...

I have no answers but I do share in your frustration. I cant seem to hatch ducks. My Khakis make it all the way to the end and then die just before hatching. Some even break through the air cell but then die before pipping. Ive managed to get 2 ducks (1 each attempted batch) out of a total of 16 fertile and heathly eggs. Very sad and frustrating!

Jaclyn

Jayme, I am so sorry!

All I have is the standard troubleshooting guide:

Eggs chilled or overheated before collection. Solve: Collect fresh eggs and store ideally at close to 12°C / 55°F and 65% RH

Low average humidity over the incubation cycle. Solve: Check hygrometer accuracy. Maintain correct humidity in incubator throughout incubation and hatching cycle.

Temperature of incubator too high or low. Solve: Check incubator settings. Check thermometers are correct. Maintain correct temperature.

Incorrect or inadequate turning. Solve: Ensure eggs are turned automatically or turn manually 3 times a day minimum.

If the temps are goofy, I did find this: Create a "heat sink" in the incubator by placing a few stones/ rocks in it, or a plastic bottle filled with water. (This is particularly important if you only have a few eggs in the incubator. The heat sink helps you to maintain a steady temperature and helps the incubator to return to the required level of heat after you have opened it.)



I know that from day 25 onwards, humidity is a big deal, if not enough that inner membrane dries and if too much, it gets rubbery and they can't break it either.

I will be curious to see how the buff ducks hatch as they lay them overnight and they are out in the cold--so that first one, chilled eggs, might cause these guys not to do well too.

So sorry for the poor turn out. That just is so not right.

I am guessing cold eggs on hatching, these were the very first eggs I gathered and so was actually suprised they were fertile, it was cold when I collected so guessing chilled.
I also moved them from my new sportsman to a wafer sportsman a week prior to hatching, maybe there was to much temperature fluctuations?
I have my other waterfowl eggs in my new sportsman, so we will see if the next hatch is better. So sad to see those tiny little duckies dead in the egg...

I know, it's heartbreaking.

How disappointing and sad. Sorry Jayme and I have no advice based on any experience.

I just downloaded the Brinsea Incubation Handbook and there's fantastic info! Turning info and trouble shooting I found most interesting. I think I need to change my turning angle in my sons Brinsea since we had great results with Banty eggs but STDs haven't been so great it's so sad to lose them especially at the very end

I am sorry to hear this Jayme. I won't give you any advice because my hatch rates are poor and can use all the advice I can get myself. Lou

Aww I'm sorry Jayme! My problem is a little later. The girls seem to hatch them out well enough...but then no matter how many rocks I put in the water dish...they seem to drown themselves!! Or, another duck would get overly aggressive. It's heartbreaking.

I'm nervous of hatching the eggs but looking forward to it at the same time. I was warned bantam duck eggs are difficult. I have a Brinsea Octagon 20 with an auto turner but no humidistat. Crossing fingers!!