Tylan Egg Dip for Mycoplasma- Ducks?

I know that the egg dip isn't 100% effective against myco, but I am wondering if it is possible to do the egg dip on Duck eggs (Call Ducks). I'm not really experienced in ducks, although I've had them on and off several years ago, I've never incubated the eggs. Duck eggs have a different texture then chicken eggs. Are they more water resistant then chicken eggs? Would the egg dip inoculate (is that the right word?) the duck eggs?

Hmmmm...

Was just thinking. I remember one time I had a chicken hatch out Duck eggs and I was told by someone to float the eggs every so often in warm water because the duck eggs need higher humidity.

Is this true? And if so, then in theory, if the eggs are absorbing water (when incubating) then they should absorb the Tylan Solution. Although, dipping them in the cold water should make them contract, drawing in the solution better.

Anyone ever do Tylan Dip with Duck Eggs?

Anyone else ever hear of dipping duck eggs in warm water when incubating to keep the eggs from losing too much moisture?

Yes, duck eggs have almost a waxy surface. You might want to give them a scrub with soap and water before dipping... Unless that surface makes them impregnable to disease?

Yes, it was that waxy surface I was thinking of.

I think that Myco is passed on IN the egg? I assume, anyways. If the myco can be passed on to the hen through the sperm... and the sperm fertilizes the egg...

Aren't diseases amazing? lol Oh to be such an awesome little villain.

???sorry I dont understand, why would you bother with tylan when you can give denagard to the duck laying the egg, the duck may be a carrier but the egg wont. The duckling hatches with good possibility of being myco free so just to ensure this you can give Denagard to the duckling in the first 10 days eradicating myco from the bird, read CURE. Tylan, IMO, is a dollar short and a day late of curing anything, it only controls symptoms, no eradication. The never never plan is in play either way but at least with regular denagard treatment, assuming it is administered as soon as symptoms appear, your birds will not become permanent carriers and chicks will hatch myco free. If you give the denagard website a thorough read you will find all the details you need to start a denagard program in your flock. Its a bit expensive but Im doing it and with no regrets, I can now sell eggs and chicks with confidence that Im not a part of the disease problem.

Well, The thing is, at this point, I actually don't have any birds. So I have to get a start somewhere. So was thinking maybe hatching eggs from another source. I realize that hatching eggs isn't the best option in a lot of peoples opinion. But given my location, the lack of breeders, and the husband who would not be into going on road trips to get birds (not a bird man), hatching eggs or hatchery birds are looking pretty good about now. (or shall I say come spring?)

The way you are doing it sounds wonderful, and is something I would consider once I am up and on my feet again. It does make sense to medicate the laying bird and the chicks/duckings rather then fiddling around with dipping hatching eggs.

I'm just feeling this out, and trying to learn what I can before hand.

Good. Take a careful read and absorb all the ins and outs of different approaches. My birds, purebreds, have never showed any symptoms with the exception of 1 that was in direct contact with an infected flock. Resistant or not, wont you get sick if a sick person sneezes in your face? I desire a healthy flock so I see Denagard as a ray of hope to that end. Once a month they get a 3 day drink of it. Chicks get a dose too in the first week. If symptoms appear in the one I keep separate he gets Oxytetracycline + Denagard, however I believe he has permanent damage due to lesions- this translates as CARRIER. Look for mild wrinkling in the ends of eggs, and thin shells, and a drop in egg laying is suspect too. Again, these are signs of permanent damage due to lesions and translate as the bird being a possible carrier.

And by the way, I was that awesome little villain for a large part of my life...its not what its cracked up to be, I enjoy my freedom too much, real villains are mere slaves, their lives no better than the livestock we all keep.

Its funny because last night my son wanted to read a book on incubation for his bed time story. I walked in at the part where it talks about wether or not to wash dirty eggs before incubating. It mentioned how especially porous duck eggs are and they are especially great at wicking stuff in.

I have had a crazy year trying to figure out how to get ducks to hatch and after 5 sets of eggs finally got some out. Yes they do need to be sprayed and cooled daily during incubation. Not sure about submerging them. I also had someone once tell me they put a little of the Brinsea incuabtor cleaner in their spray bottle to spray the eggs because they are so good at wicking in bacteria and such. Calls can be especially difficult to hatch depending on their shape. If you google hatching calls ducks lots of info comes up.

Thats my 2 cents. They fun part is the ducklings are soooo cute. ALmost trumps chicks!

Hmmmm.... So they are pourus, and wick in moisture.

It would be an interesting experience to incubate them. Are the Hen ducks broody? If so, then would doing an egg dip on hen set eggs do any good, if the Mama is in contact with them... I guess in such a case, Reneggaide's treatment would be the best bet.

I would love to see some baby calls. If a regular duckling is cute enough to melt the heart, I can't imagine what a Call Duck baby would do.

I think they can go broody. Mine sorta tried but I kept taking her eggs away. I have one pic on my website. Its not the best one as I had just taken it out of the incubator. Now its bigger and way cute!